Mix of Korean American brunch, lunch and dinner
Brunch lovers will find—if not a treat—a temporary salve for their hangover at the Sunday restaurant. Not only does the menu take an all-inclusive approach to lunch, but it also includes a full range of fusion items. Whichever direction diners decide to go, they won’t walk away hungry. The portion sizes are all great.
Depending on which direction one comes from, The Sunday in Emeryville is located in an apartment building. One might pass by it on the way to IKEA or while rushing to MacArthur BART. It is built in the basement of dark blue apartments on the corner of 40th and Adeline Streets. The patio accommodates approximately four tables; Interior, not much more than that. On weekends, tables fill up quickly. When there’s less pressure to call it “brunch,” there are plenty of tables available on weekday late afternoons.
The menu reads like the size of The Greatest Brunch Hits Ever, listing just about every iteration of what a chef could do with edible gorgeous eggs. There are Benedicts, omelets, pancakes, hash or two eggs just the way you like it. The only thing you won’t find is many vegetarian options. When the server took our order, she said they were out of soyrizo and tater tots ($6). Almost every other dish is made for carnivores.
We ordered a substitute for Tater tots from Potato Kingdom – Garlic Parmesan Fries ($12). You could smell waves of garlic flowing across the table as it arrived. They’re deep fried in the extreme, way beyond where McDonald’s takes them. There was no limp or soggy fry in the area. Salt and cooking oil are major players in The Sunday. You will need some refreshing drinks to counter these ingredients.
The kitchen uses dark meat for the Fried Chicken and Waffle Platter ($19) and the Fried Chicken Sandwich ($13; a spicier alternative includes chipotle adobo sauce). When one cuts the chicken, the crispy skin retains a small amount of oil. One can order country gravy or maple syrup with chicken and waffles. The gravy comes in a small bowl on the side and is a wobbly blob the consistency and color of a thick light brown mayonnaise.
I wouldn’t go so far as to say the two plates were “salt bombs,” but no one would define them as light as a plate of sausage. I also realized I might have reached my personal end game with the same fried chicken sandwich, as my new cheese substitute. After many years of searching for them, I still couldn’t find a version I preferred more than a Bakesale Betty’s buttermilk fried chicken and coleslaw sandwich. Full disclaimer: ordering the strawberry shortcake might have been the thing to sweeten it up, and in the end, it sealed the deal for me.
Along with crispbread, waffle, and baguette options, lemon ricotta pancake mix ($18) is listed under the “Maple” menu. I’m not sure which chef came up with the idea of mixing lemon and ricotta together, but they deserve at least one Michelin star. Those flavors never fail to please. The combo also includes two eggs, any style, and a side order of bacon, sausage, turkey bacon, or turkey sausage.
The subtitle under Sunday Restaurant’s banner is “Contemporary Korean American Cuisine”. There is an entire section of the list dedicated to “Fusion”, but one can find fusion elsewhere as well. Bulgogi is offered as an omelette ($18), filled with Sriracha aioli, which is eye-bones marinated in soy sauce, and cheddar cheese, or in a Benedict ($19) served with chipotle hollandaise.
But at the top of the Fusion menu itself, one will find the assorted Korean mini pancakes ($18) with mung, seafood, chives, and jalapenos. If one wishes to skip brunch altogether, the “Sunday Dinner Only” restaurant’s entrees include kimchi fried rice ($16), dakiti ($16, stir-fried spicy ramen) and shin-Sunday ramen ($12, a bowl of creamy broth and vegetables and sausage and sunny-side up eggs).
Sun, open Sun 9am-4pm, Tue-Fri 9am-2:30pm, Sat 9am-3pm and 5-9:30pm. 3986 Adeline Street, Emeryville. 510,922,9354. instagram.com/thesundayrestaurant.